Preserving Art Deco: Cleo Restaurant on Ocean Drive
Much has been written about the threat to Miami’s iconic Art Deco District and buildings and neighborhoods. So, imagine my pleasure entering the newly renovated Lord Balfour Hotel (now just the Balfour) on 350 Ocean Drive to see that classic era still on display at Cleo Restaurant.
Opening just this past weekend, we were invited for a media preview of the fresh and delicious Mediterranean menu imagined by the very talented, Chef Camila Olarte, a 2019 North American San Pellegrino Semifinalist and formerly at The Surf Club and Los Fuegos.
The main dining room is off the lobby with tables arranged around an olive tree and offers a warm and welcoming vibe.
There is a cozy bar also situated in the lobby. And a garden patio out back with seating, tropical plantings and orchids and offers access to the new wing of the hotel.
Our media preview began in this garden with live music and passed fresh corvina ceviche and a spicy lamb “cigar” with a feta and labneh dipping sauce. This was paired with a crisp Vairin-Jumel Champagne or Spicy Margarita option.
Once seated family style, we were presented with the first course of house baked jou jou pita, crudité, olives and pickled veggies, a selection of dips including Atom garlic yogurt and chili oil, Moutabel charred eggplant, Hummus and our favorite the walnut muhammara of toasted walnuts, herbs and topped with pomegranate.
This was followed (and the timing and service was impeccable) by a colorful Greek Salad topped with large thick slices of feta and fried Halloumi. Cheese with a honey, lemon and chili dipping sauce.
A selection of main courses called appropriately ,“Fill The Table” was served family style and offered something for everyone and made for a beautiful and appetizing presentation. This assortment, which is offered on the Cleo menu, could easily feed 4-6 people and comes with your choice off 2 sides.
It featured a perfect blend of proteins and flavors and included Spiced Marinated Chicken, Ground Butchers Lamb Kofte, Marinated Beef Skirt Steak, Grilled Prawn skewer, and colorful grilled red peppers, Shishito peppers, tomatoes and lemon halves. There were 2 dipping sauces which we chose to ignore because the flavors were so well balanced.
A perfectly prepared Branzino was fileted and deboned and lightly dressed with fresh lemon, herbs and olive oil.
A fragrant Rice Pilaf and Crispy Cauliflower were added as sides.
Two wines were paired. A 2024 Florino white wine from Greece, and a 2023 red from Lebanon.
Dessert was a theatrical experience, as Chef Camilla introduced her very creative Baklava Tower, a lighter version of the traditional sticky dessert with paper thin pieces of crispy phyllo layered with pistachio cream, candied walnuts and pistachios ,and topped with pistachio gelato.
A Pomegranate Granita was layered on top of a mascarpone cream for a refreshing palate cleanser.
A fitting end to a wonderful and creative evening South of Fifth on Ocean Drive, Miami’s Art Deco District.
Cleo Restaurant in the Lord Balfour
350 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139
*Now Open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner